The Palazzina Cinese is a strange curious little building just outside Palermo. A bit difficult to reach, it is worth a visit, located within the confines of the Riserva di Monte Pellegrino and just oustide the Parco della Favorita. The work done to the structure in its current form was completed and realized by Giuseppe Venanzio Marvuglia, mainly an architect of municipal structures, in 1799 after being commissioned by Ferdinand IV di Borbone. Marvuglia enlarged the structure and beautified it for Ferdinando and his wife, Maria Carolina. The structure was originally built almost a decade previously by the laywer, Benedetto Lombardo.
At the time of my visit in 2009, the structure was closed for renovations. It has now re-opened to the public and is worthy of a visit since you could explore the park at the same time which is located nearby.
The architecture is a blend of neoclassicism and "cineserie", which was in fashion at the time that the structure was built. The curious mixture of styles give the structure, in my opinion, an air of fantasy, as if stepping into a story book with its bright colors, Chinese prints and silks, and the "oriental" bells that adorn the railings. Check out the video below with offers a wonderful video "tour" of the structure.
Reaching the Palazzina Cinese:
(this section is under construction while I do some research on transportation options...!)
If you have a car, it's probably best to drive. Failing that, you could take a taxi. From the Giardino inglese, it is a 3.5 km walk north, probably more difficult during the hot summer months.
At the end of December, an American wrote a thought-provoking letter to the editors of the Giornale di Sicilia. In the editorial, the author writes about the reactions he experiences when he talks about Palermo to stranieri. I laughed aloud when he reported that many people believe Palermo to be dangerous. He even remarks about how he told a Palestinian he had come from Palermo, and the Palestinian remarked that he was such a brave man.
I am dismayed. Palermo has come so far -- yet our understanding this remarkable city has not progressed beyond the stereotypes of films and books. Palermo seems to be a prisoner of its past. Even important literary works which seek to expose the mafia, while important in exposing the realities of organized crime, still, passively, taint our understanding of the city.
I admit that many years ago my own opinion of Palermo was clouded. I remember the first time I planned to visit the city to meet a friend of mine, telling him how I was a little nervous. He quipped, "Don't worry, I don't think that there will be any shootouts on the street corners while you are here." He helped me to see how foolish I was being: judging a city that I had never visited and basing my opinions on movies, books and dated news reports. I discovered that Palermo was a wonderful jewel in the Mediterranean with a rich history that I had only begun to discover.
Roberto Alajmo's book, Palermo è una cipolla, is a wonderful work that describes the city best. No guidebook does what this book does. Recently translated into English, this book is a must for anyone visiting the city. Alajmo paints a realistic portrait of the city, being careful not to gloss over the city's ills while at the same time promoting its beauty and charm. He has a way of understanding your feelings and fears of the city as if reading your mind: "Here comes the difficulty, however. Everything mentioned in the previous chapter, added to everything you have heard over the years, the months, the weeks and days of your life have left you feeling a shade apprehensive." (Alajmo, Roberto. Palermo. London: Haus, 2009. Translator: Guido Waldman. Print. pp. 31)
Yes, Palermo can be gritty and overwhelming at first. My own first day in Palermo was so overwhelming, but I survived to tell the tale. My friend drove me all around the city, showing me how it was no different than any other city in Italy. We also walked all over the city and explored all the quarters of the city. Soon I began to see the marvels and wonders of Palermo. Over the coming days, I began to appreciate the city more and more. More importantly, I wanted to make sure that others could appreciate the city as I do, and I promote the city every chance I get.
I have traveled the world several times over, lived most of my life in the United States, spent several years traveling and living in Australia, as well as stints in Rome and exploring Europe, parts of Asia...and yet, Palermo is still one of my favorite places in all the world!
The race for Palermo's next mayor is...heating up.... Being an American, I am often surprised at how many candidates Italian elections seem to have from a dizzying array of political parties. This year the race is chock full of people, and it is interesting to see a diverse group of men and women of all ages vying for the post, bucking the trend that only old men and women run take part in the Italian political process.
The casual traveler probably won't give a care much who wins, but as you walk around the city, taking in the sites, you're bound to see a slew of political posters (manifesti politici) all over the city advertising the various candidates running for the post.
The site, Rosalio, has quaintly dubbed the process, Grande Sindachello, an homage of sorts to Grande Fratello, or, Big Brother (as it is known in English). Big Mayor...now there's an idea for American television executives (...like we need more reality TV?). It is mind blowing how important social media has become for elections all over the world, with many of the candidates having Facebook pages and Twitter feeds.
If you're curious about the political process in Palermo or want to know more about the candidates, check it out. It is, of course, in Italian, and will require a decent understanding of the language...or you can simply gaze at the photos of the candidates, too.
